The Trip

Drought my arse. The centre of Australia has apparently not had rain for 12 months. Even the farmers have been given drought relief by the government. But in the past 24 hours more than 100mm of rain has fallen. Most of it ended up in my tent last night. It wasn't all bad as it was like sleeping on a water-bed. It's good for the farmers too. That was the end of our little trip into the West MacDonnell ranges, a truly beautiful place. The ranges are over 150km long and contain a lot of water holes, creeks, and vegetation. On the days we were there it was sunny and hot and lot of the water holes were dry. It would be good to see what they look like now it's rained a bit but they'll need more than this. We spent time (we being my friends Sarah and Stijn who I met last time I was away) walking through the national park and seeing bits of it like the gorges and another Pound which was good. There was a such a lot of wildlife out there too, mainly birds. There's quite a c...

Flies everywhere. These are the flies peculiar to the outback of Australia and they are bloody persistent. They buzz around your head and try to drink from your eyeballs and shelter in your ears. No amount of swatting, gnashing, cursing, or running will deter them. They're relentless. After a short while they just settle down and sit on your back. They do this and then don't move until you return to your vehicle. If you were to swat at them they'd calmly take off and land again. Infuriating, but you do get used to it. I have been traveling through the outback, albeit on the main highways, for the past fortnight or so. Such a big place. The road stretches in front of you like a ribbon through the desert with nothing man made visible anywhere else. Every 300km you'll find a petrol station which acts as an oasis to all travelers. These are staffed by country types who act either friendly or indifferent depending on if they like you. Rest stops that are normally nothing mor...

The centre of Australia is truly a desolate, empty place. It's probably a good thing that the Not-So-Mighty One (my bike) conked out where it did as if it had done so along the way it would have been curtains for me. After Albany I got back to Perth by bus which took only 6 hours; a small trip. This was along the same road that had brought me down and it did seem shorter going back. I stayed in Perth for a couple more days before embarking on my train journey across the Nulaboor plain by Indian Pacific Railway. Now I have read Bryson's "Down Under" and if I earned the sort of money he gets in royalties then I would have traveled first class (or Gold Kangaroo Class, if you please) too. But I don't. So I didn't. I traveled Fourth Class Baggage instead which still weighed in at a rather hefty $300 or so. I thought I'd be brave. I thought I could take it like a man. At the station in Perth I got onto the train and located my seat. The interior looked like a BR...